8.August.2010
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The Welsh are a beautiful people, ancestors of the Celts. They are proud of their language and heritage. It is surprising to me how similar the topography is to the Appalachian area of the US. Perhaps that is why so many immigrated there when they crossed the pond.
The history of the Welsh is one of persistence. Present day Wales it the result of English aristocracy pushing the commoners west, toward less fertile ground. The English kept the abundant and easily arable ground east of the Severn River, while they pushed, beheaded and bribed the Welsh onto their small country. Looking at the beautiful hills, though, one could imagine that it is the Welsh who have “won.”
Peter Budgen (of Pentdragon Tours) picked me up at the Courtfield Hotel at 9.30. We headed to Cardiff Bay, a quick look at the New Opera House and a brief history of Cardiff. It became an important coal port in the 19th century. The man who made started making Cardiff what it is today is John Crichton-Stuart, 2nd Marquess of Bute.
On our drive away from Cardiff, Peter pointed out southern islands—Flat Holm and Steep Holm—used first by the Viking invaders and then later by the murderers of Thomas a Beckett to hide after they had committed their deed.
Then we were off to Caerleon Amphitheatre (Caer is the Welsh word for war or military), one of the first Roman military outposts in Briton. There I saw the ruins of an ancient amphitheatre and the Roman Barracks where soldiers slept.
Next to Caerwent where Roman mercenaries, after serving their 20-year time, “retired.” There I saw sheep (there are over 10 million sheep and under 4 million people populating Wales). I also had my first Welsh cat and rooster sighting.
Along the Wye, next we ended up at Chepstow Castle in the border town of Chepstow. The English built a castle along with a wall to keep the Welsh in their place. Chepstow’s castle is the second Norman castle to be built (after the Tower of London) in Britain.
We drove through Dean’s Forest—the hunting grounds of King John I. We had a Ploughman’s lunch at Georges in Briavels. Briefly toured the Hunting Lodge (John I’s) in Briavels and the small Parish Church of St. Brivaels.
Next to Tintern Abbey where I marveled at the hugeness of this once-magificent building. It was torn down and abandoned as part of Henry VIII’s dissolution of the Catholic abbey, cloisters, and church.
Next to Raglan Castle, a bit more stately and comfortable than the castle in Chepstow.
Back to Cardiff to visit the WWI monument and then to the bus station home.
My tour of Southern Wales was superb, and I will certainly be back.
